Rovinj’s People, Places, and Past – And the Way They Changed Me
TRAVELOGUE
by Mijat Kontić
Ever since I was a child, living in the post-Yugoslav era, I have always been captivated by nostalgic stories about Rovinj and its unique seaside, which is unmatched by any other. Tasty truffles, quality wine, the crystal-clear sea, and the warm hospitality of its residents were the usual impressions I would hear about when older folks reminisced about their trips to the „Little Venice of Istra“.
These stories were, without a doubt, accurate and truthful. Rovinj truly is, and always will remain, a work of art in its own right.
Although for me, this was never the first thing that came to mind when someone mentioned Rovinj. My association with Rovinj was always, before anything else, my „nonna“, my dear grandmother, who taught me all about my Italian and Croatian heritage and the history that tied my family to this little piece of paradise.
*Slika Kontić-Belengi pločice
After many years, I finally had the chance to come back to Rovinj and witness it through a completely different „set of eyes“ than I used to have when I was just a child running through the narrow streets of the old city, hoping I would catch those chubby cats that were regularly feasting on leftovers of quality fish.
Now I had the opportunity to witness this city for what it truly is: a city full of hidden history that speaks volumes about its people and the Croatian and Italian influences that shaped this area into what it is today.
Rovinj: The Adriatic’s Most Charming Identity Crisis
My first goal upon arriving in Rovinj was to learn as much as I could about it. Although I’m not in my “student days” anymore, I still enjoy searching for as many free activities as I can find whenever I travel. Lucky for me, the “Augustus Walks” tour appeared while I was searching the web, offering a free, tips-based walk through the city with a very knowledgeable guide, Dalen Odobašić, a history teacher from Pula, who took us through a “crash course” on Rovinj and its history.
I have always wondered how my grandmother’s mother ended up with an Italian husband, taking his last name, “Berlenghi,” and allowing me, generations later, the privilege of boasting about my Italian heritage to all my friends and peers.
As Dalen explained to us, Rovinj’s deep-rooted connection to Italy stems from centuries of Venetian rule, which shaped its architecture, urban design, and cultural identity. Later, under Italian governance from 1918 to 1947, Italian language and customs became even more entrenched, leaving a lasting legacy. Today, Rovinj is officially bilingual, with Italian widely used in public life, making it especially welcoming to Italian visitors. Its Venetian-style buildings and Italian-influenced cuisine evoke a distinctly Mediterranean atmosphere.
After our history-rich tour through the city, our tour guide even took the time to provide us with a list of budget-friendly recommendations for places and activities in Rovinj that will give you the full experience of visiting this town, without completely depleting your budget before your vacation ends. Rovinj is usually known to be more on the expensive side, but thanks to Dalen, we managed to stray from tourist traps without missing out on anything. Therefore, I cannot recommend this tour enough if you find yourself visiting this wonderful city.
At the very end of the tour, at the Church of Saint Benedict, another „nonna“, with the similar hospitality that I knew my grandmother for, offered us ice-cold water to help us come back to our senses after our walk on a hot, sunny day. Grazie, nonna, sei una santa.
Paddle First, Ask Directions Later
The beauties of Rovinj don’t end at its coast, because right across it are the Islands known as the Crveni otok (and Sveti Andrija), Sveti Ivan, and the Sveta Katarina island. On one hand, you can always visit them with tourist boats situated at the main port of Rovinj, but where’s the fun in that?
If you’re feeling a bit more adventurous and you have the strength to paddle, you can visit the Crveni Otok and Sveti Ivan island with nothing more than a kayak. As our group gathered with tourists from Germany, Belgium, and Serbia (and for the first time, Serbians were not the palest people in the group), we put on our sunscreen and set out into the open seas with our trusty guide, Davor, from @konankayaktours on Instagram.
At first, it may seem scary to imagine yourself on the open sea with just a kayak, but once your group paddles away from the coast, you start to feel the freedom of the ocean welcoming you into its arms. If you’re lucky, you might even get the chance to see dolphins swimming right by your side.
For our first destination, we reached Sveti Ivan. This is the longest part of the route. Turning around and seeing how far you came with nothing but your trusty kayak is a rewarding feeling. However, even more rewarding than that is snorkelling and swimming along this deserted island with little to no tourists to get in your way, leaving you to enjoy the peace that you can’t find on the more crowded coast of Rovinj.
After a swim to refresh ourselves, we took a walk around the island, where we saw the very Church of Saint Ivan that is now abandoned. In the Middle Ages, the Eremite of Saint Geronimo of Fiesole lived there and they built themself a church and a monastery. In 1668, the Pope abolished the order, and they left the island.
The island has many magnificent and tall cliffs from which you can dive into the sea, an opportunity I couldn’t pass up on. Still, I recommend sticking to the shorter jumps if you’re not familiar with the proper diving techniques. It’s safe to say that the adrenaline of taking a „leap of faith“ into the water from more than 5 meters in the air was a feeling I’ll always remember. My partner, on the other hand, decided to stick with snorkelling and enjoying her well-deserved cigarette next to the sea.
For our final destination, we visited the Crveni Otok, a more „commercial“ island, which has a wonderful beach, walking routes you can take, and beach bars at which you can refresh yourselves and prepare for the return to the coast of Rovinj. Thanks to this adventure, we returned with a nice tan, ready to share our unique experience with friends, families, and of course, our envious followers on social media. If you have the stamina, I highly recommend taking this tour; if not, you can always rent a kayak for yourself and enjoy a calm ride along the coastline.
World Traveller, Local Drinker – People Watching with a Gemišt by my Side
The nightlife in Rovinj isn’t quite the same compared to what we’re used to in Belgrade. Instead of clubs and such, you may find restaurants, cafes, bars, and live music livening up the streets of this town. One thing that you may notice right away is that the locals stick to the classics when going out for a drink. Spritzes, Croatian beers, and wines are the most often „weapons of choice“ for a night out.
Whenever I travel, I try to find places that offer a more authentic experience, one that truly captures the spirit of the city I’m visiting. After many nights in the old city of Rovinj, I can without a doubt say that the Batel Bar offers exactly this.
The outdoor tables provide a perfect place to people-watch while enjoying a reasonably priced drink. Chances are, you’ll find yourself making new friendships here, especially with the very friendly service and staff that are extremely quick on their feet.
My Rovinj: Between Memory and Discovery
Rovinj isn’t just a postcard-perfect town, but rather a tapestry of cultures, memories, and quiet revolutions. For me, it’s a place where history isn’t confined to museums or monuments, but lives in the hospitality of its people, the colourful and creative architecture of its old town, and the sea that invites you to paddle past the obvious. Whether you come for the truffles, the sunsets, or the thrill of diving off ancient cliffs, Rovinj will meet you halfway, with stories you didn’t expect and a version of yourself you might not have met yet.
Xerox of a Xerox
The main attraction in Rovinj is the Church of Saint Euphemia. It was built in the 18th century, and its bell tower was modelled after the famous campanile of St. Mark’s Basilica in Venice. That’s the first “xerox”, Rovinj borrowing Venice’s iconic design.
But here’s the twist: after the original St. Mark’s campanile collapsed in 1902, Venice rebuilt it “as it was, where it was.” During this reconstruction, architects referenced similar towers inspired by the original, including Rovinj’s Saint Euphemia tower, which had preserved many of the original proportions and stylistic elements. So in a way, Venice borrowed back from its architectural offspring, making Rovinj’s tower a “xerox of a xerox.”
Photos by: Mina Ilić